Wat Aham, Luang Prabang

Wat Aham, Luang Prabang.

Wat Aham is a Laotian temple in Luang Prabang located next door to Wat Wisunalat. It is known as the Monastery of the Opened Heart. I visited it when I explored Luang Prabang with some members of AsiaExplorers. We walked across to Wat Aham from Wat Wisunalat.

I learn that there is no conclusive record as to when Wat Aham was founded, although we do know that the present sim (main hall) was constructed in 1818 by King Manthatourath, who reigned between 1817-1836. Unlike most Laotian sims, Wat Aham's has a similar façade on both ends (other sims usually are simple in design on the rear).

What I remembered most about Wat Aham are the charming roof ornamentation. These include the Dok So Far, a metallic centrepiece that graces the middle of the roof. Usually, this is in the form of a series of spires, but in the case of Wat Aham, the Dok So Far looks like the intertwining tails of two nagas. Another embellishment to Wat Aham's roof is seen on the roof eaves, where it is decorated with sculptured dragons.

Wat Aham was a significant temple in much of the 19th century, for it hosted the residence of the Sangkhalat (also written Pra Sangkarat), the Supreme Patriach of Laotian Buddhism, a monk who is a sort of Buddhist Cardinal for Laos. The honour then moved to Wat Mai.

The site where Wat Aham stands was where King Fa Ngum, the founder of the Lan Xang kingdom who reigned from 1353-1373. He established a shrine for the worship of devata luang, guardian spirits of Luang Prabang called Phou Nheu and Nha Nheu. This practise was suppressed during the reign of King Photthisalat, who reigned from 1520 to 1548. He banned the worship of guardian spirits and destroyed spirit shrines.

Despite the ban, the population continued to practise of spirit worship, albeit discretely. Not long after the spirit shrines were destroyed, Luang Prabang was hit by a number of crises, including drought, disease and crop failure. Naturally the people of Luang Prabang regard this as a consequence of the destruction of the shrines. When King Setthathirat, who reigned from 1548-1571, transferred the capital to Vientiane, a new shrine was rebuilt for Phou Nheu and Nha Nheu. So, even when Wat Aham was the residence of the Sangkhalat, the spirit shrines continued to share the same compound. This was so until the mide 20th century, when the shrines were destroyed. Since then, popular belief had it that the spirits of Phou Nheu and Nha Nheu have transferred to the two banyan trees in the compound.

The Dok So Far on the roof of Wat Aham.

A dragon ornamental design on the roof of Wat Aham.

The Buddha images within Wat Aham with wall murals.

Murals on the walls and ceiling of Wat Aham.

Ancient, mildewed stupas on the grounds of Wat Aham.

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