Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, Luang Prabang

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham at night, Luang Prabang, Laos, taken with time exposure.

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, also written as Vat Mai Suwannaphummaham, Si Souvanna Phommaram, Mai Souvana Phoun Ram, or simply Wat Mai, is the biggest Budhhist temple in Luang Prabang. Its name Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, as I would translate it, means "The New Monastery of the Golden Land". It is located along Sisavang Vong Road (Thanon Phothisalat), close to Haw Kham, the Royal Palace Museum. In my personal opinion, this is the second most opulent temple in Luang Prabang after Wat Xieng Thong.

I first visited Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham when it was already night time - hence the photograph above. My second visit was during the heat of mid day, when the sky was a blazing blue. With these visits, I am now able to document Wat Suwannaphumaham (and now, for Penang).

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham was built in 1796 by King Anourout (also written Anurat) in 1796-7. In 1821, King Manthathourat embarked on a thorough face-lift, restoring the sim with its 5-tier roof, adding a double colonnaded porch in front of the sim, and another at the rear. With a new look comes a new name: King Manthathourat gave it its present name, Wat Mai, which means New Monastery.

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, being next door to the Royal Palace, received royal patronage. An added significance of Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham is that it was once the residence of the Sangkhalat (also written Pra Sangkarat), a sort of the Buddhist Cardinal for Laos.

The Pha Bang Buddha Image, the most sacred Buddha image in Luang Prabang, and probably in Laos as well, was brought over from Wat Wisunalat to Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham in 1894, where it stayed until 1947, when it moved next door to the Royal Palace (now the Royal Palace Museum).

Every year, during Pimai, the Laotian New Year, the Pha Bang Buddha image is brought over from the Royal Palace Museum next door. Over a period of three days, the image is given ceremonial cleansing. It is an opportunity for devotees to pay homage to it.

An outstanding feature of Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham is the walls of the front verandah. These recount scenes from the Ramayana and Buddha's penultimate incarnation. The verandah is supported by lacquered columns that are elaborately stenciled. Within the compound are acciliary buildings and minor stupas.

Entrance Fee
There was a 2000 kip admittance fee for foreign tourists to Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham which we had to pay when we were not part of a guided tour. Somehow they missed collecting this from me when I entered the temple compound. Nobody was around to take it from me, and at that time, I wasn't aware of the entrance fee. Perhaps they thought I was a local!

The 5-tier roof of Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham.

The monks' quarters.

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham as seen from Sisavangvong Road.

Another night scene of Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, showing its heavily gilded front verandah.

The sim of Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham as seen from Mount Phousi.

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