Ruins of Istana Tunku Kudin, called Kota Bukit Pinang, di Bukit Pinang, Alor Setar (11 March, 2008)
Istana Tunku Kudin (GPS: 6.20982, 100.43186), also called Kota Bukit Pinang, is the ruins of a medieval palace that once belonged to the Kedah aristocrat Tunku Kudin. This is a different Tunku Kudin from the one who built Tunku Kudin House, and also different from the Tunku Kudin who built Segara Ninda, both historical houses in Penang.
Istana Tunku Kudin is located in Bukit Pinang, a northern suburb of Alor Setar. Established in 1664, Bukit Pinang served as one of the sites for the capital of Kedah. The 15th sultan of Kedah, Sultan Dziaddin Mukarram Shah (1661-1687) relocated his seat to Bukit Pinang in 1681.
Tunku Kudin called his palace Kota Bukit Pinang. It was erected in 1827 on the western bank of Sungai Kedah, with Bukit Tinggi behind it. At that time, Kedah was already part of Siam, having been conquered in the 1821 invasion. For a while it appeared that he would be able to live peacefully in Kedah even when other members of the Kedah royal court had fled south to Penang Island and Province Wellesley. But this was not to be.
Arches at the entrance to Istana Tunku Kudin (11 March, 2008)
The arches as seen from the inside (11 March, 2008)
In 1831 Tunku Kudin of Kota Bukit Pinang dared to defy the Siamese. As a result, he was attacked by the Raja of Ligor (Ligor being the other name for Nakhon Si Thammarat), who brought an army of 7,500 men and 300 elephants to converge on Bukit Pinang. Tunku Kudin was killed in that battle.
Tunku Kudin's palace is still standing today, albeit in an advance state of ruin, due mainly to neglect. Undergrowth has taken over the building, making it look like jungle ruins, although it is just half an hour from Alor Setar.
When I visited Istana Tunku Kudin in 2008, it was largely overgrown with trees. But when I view it on Google Street View (dated March 2014), I see that the shrubs have been cleared, allowing a clear view of the structure. I can make out what looks like a hall with arches and rustications.
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